Kristian Mercer

Kristian's Rarefied Regency Tour
Day Two: London - Spencer House, Fortnum & Mason, and Hatchards

One of my friends announced that we were definitely attempting the next "rung" of tourist activities, having bypassed the Tower and Buckingham Palace for such little-known sites as Spencer House. But this, as you'll see, was one of the highlights of our trip. Without further ado, here's an excerpt from my journal.

Spencer House is one of the last intact great eighteenth-century private palaces in London. It was built for the first Earl Spencer and his wife (a great love story, with emblems of their romance emblazoned all over the decor). Spencer was a descendent of the first Duchess of Marlborough, and forbidden from participating in politics due to her will, so he poured his money and energy into his house.

What remains today is really an amazing work of reconstruction. All the moldings, chair rails, door frames, art, furniture, etc. were carted off to Althorp during World War II and never put back. It was Rothschild money--millions of pounds, although the docent wouldn't tell us exactly how much--that enabled the restoration of a few state rooms on the ground and first floors. The remainder of the house is given over to office space.

But it is still magnificent, nothing less than a work of art. The Palm Room covered in gold leaf, so brilliant that you can imagine how it must have glowed in candlelight; the Painted Room done up in what was then known as the "grotesque" style, all medallions and classical allusions. And everywhere the beautiful neo-classical details of James "Athenian" Stuart. Just gorgeous, although the amount of wealth necessary to generate such beauty staggers the mind.

[I wish I had some images of the interior to share on this blog. Unfortunately, photography was prohibited inside the house and I haven't been able to find anything that isn't copyrighted. My apologies!]

After our tour, we walked back to Fortnum & Mason. I bought a tin of Rose Pouchong tea and we all marveled at the beautiful, ornate window displays. The one of tea and china was particularly lovely. I even attempted some photos.

[This is probably the best shot of that window display, and it's...well, the kindest description would be "interesting." I suppose the reflection of the Royal Academy of Art is a bonus!

And as I learned just this evening, Fortnum & Mason has definite Regency affiliations. Founded in 1707, the store gained royal approval in 1761 when Queen Charlotte became a customer. Fortnum & Mason also played an important role during the Napoleonic Wars, supplying preserved food and spices to British troops. Thanks, Wikipedia! ]

Our last stop before lunch was at Hatchards, which has been selling books from this location since the 1790's. I was quite amused to see Loretta Chase and Stephanie Laurens shelved with the historical fiction, and very pleased to discover one of my favorite Georgette Heyer novels. It gave me quite a thrill to be purchasing books at the same shop my favorite heroines patronize!

Recommended reading: Spencer House: A Short History, by John Martin Robinson, Mark Fiennes, and Celia de la Hay